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The grapes for the Toro red 2019 Gago were picked from mid-September in an early harvest when the wine ripened to 14.4% alcohol and a pH of 3.8. The grapes come from the villages of Argujillo, Villabuena del Puente and Morales de Toro and were fermented in oak and stainless steel vats and matured for 14 months in oak foudres, with 20% of the volume in barriques. There is finesse within the power and the ripe and concentrated vintage. It's juicy and lush, with abundant, grainy tannins. It needs powerful food. 40,695 bottles produced. It was bottled in May and June 2020. I tasted the whole portfolio of Telmo Rodríguez a few months ago, and as usual, I'm including here his wines from the Duero for context and completeness of this article. As I wrote at the time, their Ribera del Duero project is moving very slowly. They still want to restore the old stone house they bought and build the winery, but the permits seem almost impossible. But they revamped the wine from there a few vintages ago, and it’s a great success. Matallana is a regional blend of the different villages where they have vineyards, but the vineyard names have been crossed out on the label, as the appellation does not allow them to be mentioned! The 2018 is stunning. Telmo Rodríguez and Pablo Eguzkiza have fermented their 2021s from Galicia in the new winery in Valdeorras, Ribera del Duero. It is still a work in progress, and there will be new stuff from Rioja in a few more years. The main wines across the portfolio feel very consolidated now. (by Luis Gutiérrez)
When tasted next to the 2020, the 2019 Lanzaga comes through as a little more closed and austere, with a little less alcohol (14% vs 14.5%) and with rounder tannins. It comes from 15 to 20 hectares of their own organically farmed vineyards. It fermented in concrete with indigenous yeasts and matured in 225-liter barrels and 1,500- and 2,500-liter oak foudres for 14 months.
The 2018 Barolo Bricco delle Viole (with 6,000 bottles made) opens to a medium rich appearance followed by very distinct aromas of wild rose, grilled herb, mint and freshly milled white pepper. The wine's texture is lean but fine-tuned and elegant. These qualities shape a long and polished mouthfeel. Fruit comes from a one-hectare parcel at a breezy 420 meters in elevation.
Senechaux's 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of 57% Grenache, 24% Syrah and 19% Mourvèdre, aged in a combination of foudres, older barriques and concrete tanks. It offers up a nice array of fruit flavors, ranging from grilled cherries and red-skinned plums to fresh red raspberries. Full-bodied, supple and easy to drink already, it finishes with ample length and mouthwatering acids.
The folks at Poggio al Tesoro really have nabbed a successful approach when it comes to the versatile Vermentino grape. The 2021 Bolgheri Vermentino Solosole opens to a luminous appearance and golden highlights. The bouquet produces nectarine, passion fruit, pomelo and a glossy or waxy element that adds a bit of the proverbial shine. It only sees stainless steel, and the grapes come from a vineyard planted just above the level of the sea. An ample 100,000 bottles were made and each one offers terrific value.
The San Giorgio 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte (with 30,000 bottles made) is a little subdued when compared to the 2016 vintage, and it delivers broad aromas of plummy dark fruit, spice and crushed roses. The wine is mid-weight in texture, but there is a good amount of power packed within, thanks to the wine's structure and its compact fruit.
The 2020 Bolgheri Rosso Villa Donoratico shows ripe fruit and a greater oak presence with spice, tar, tobacco and smoked cedarwood. This full-bodied wine could almost be a Bolgheri Superiore, thanks to the depth, richness and importance of its flavor profile.
The 2018 Gago was produced with Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo) from the villages of Argujillo, Villabuena del Puente and Morales de Toro in an atypical vintage in the zone, with lots of rain and a cool summer that delivered a generous crop of late-picked grapes between October 4th and 10th. It fermented in oak and stainless steel vats and matured for 14 months in oak foudres and 20% of the volume in barriques. The wines are always ripe here, and the challenge is to keep the freshness and achieve elegance. The wine is juicy, round and full-bodied, with abundant, slightly grainy tannins. 42,220 bottles produced. It was bottled in May and June 2019.
They look for a more classical expression in the 2019 De la Finca, a selection of vineyards by Pepe Raventós's grandfather, produced in a slightly more oxidative style and aged for 30+ months with lees. 2019 was a very good and "normal" vintage, with good rain, normal yields and a paused harvest. This has more smokiness from the contact with the yeasts and lees with very fine bubbles, subtle, defined by how they prepare the second fermentation in bottle and then the aging in the bottle.
The young and unoaked 2021 LZ from Rioja comes from a year with low yields in Lanciego and wines with lots of color and high acidity. It fermented in concrete with indigenous yeasts, where it matured for six to seven months before bottling. This is their Marcel Lapierre Morgon wannabe, juicy, fleshy, super drinkable, with a velvety texture. 65,017 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2022.
A blend of 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Sangiovese and 5% Petit Verdot, the Grattamacco 2020 Bolgheri Rosso shows nice elegance over a tight and streamlined body. It is redolent of black fruit, plum and cherry with mild shadings of spice at the back (it sees a brief eight months in mostly neutral oak). The vineyards are located from 100 to 200 meters above sea level with quartz sandstone soils mixed with white clays, marly limestone, flysch and red sands. Best after 2022.
I also tasted the 2019 Juan Gil (blue label), the wine formerly known as 18 Months, the time it spends in barrel. They use 100% new oak that is a mixture of French and American. The wine is ripe, oaky and heady (15.5% alcohol), but I felt a change in the oak, which seemed more integrated. When I asked Miguel Gil, he told me they had changed the toast, using less toasted barrels, from medium+ to medium, and that shows in the wine. They still believe this wine should have new oak to give it aging potential. They have also introduced optical sorting of the grapes and eliminate the raisins (by shape) and the unripe grains (by color), and that adds precision and cleanliness. 30,000 bottles were produced. It was bottled in June 2021.
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P.S.: 🍷 Don`t drink and type...