Robert Parker
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COMENTARIILE LUI Robert Parker
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BOLGHERI ROSSO 2020-ColleMassari
A blend of 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Sangiovese and 5% Petit Verdot, the Grattamacco 2020 Bolgheri Rosso shows nice elegance over a tight and streamlined body. It is redolent of black fruit, plum and cherry with mild shadings of spice at the back (it sees a brief eight months in mostly neutral oak). The vineyards are located from 100 to 200 meters above sea level with quartz sandstone soils mixed with white clays, marly limestone, flysch and red sands. Best after 2022.
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JUAN GIL BLUE LABEL 2019-Bodegas Juan Gil
I also tasted the 2019 Juan Gil (blue label), the wine formerly known as 18 Months, the time it spends in barrel. They use 100% new oak that is a mixture of French and American. The wine is ripe, oaky and heady (15.5% alcohol), but I felt a change in the oak, which seemed more integrated. When I asked Miguel Gil, he told me they had changed the toast, using less toasted barrels, from medium+ to medium, and that shows in the wine. They still believe this wine should have new oak to give it aging potential. They have also introduced optical sorting of the grapes and eliminate the raisins (by shape) and the unripe grains (by color), and that adds precision and cleanliness. 30,000 bottles were produced. It was bottled in June 2021.
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SAINTAYME 2020-Chateau Saintayme
The 2020 Saintayme is 100% Merlot, harvested between the 28th and the 30th of September. It has an alcohol of 14.5% and is aging in French oak barrels, 30% new. Deep purple-black colored, it needs a little coaxing to unlock scents of tar, forest floor and aniseed, over a core of baked black plums, blackberry pie and chocolate-covered cherries, plus a touch of dried mint. The full-bodied palate is densely packed with muscular black fruits and loads of earthy accents, framed by firm, rounded tannins and just enough freshness, finishing on a lingering minty note. 63,000 bottles are expected to be made
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CHABLIS BUTTEAUX PREMIER CRU 2020-Domaine Louis Michel et Fils
More textural than the Fôrets, the 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux delivers notes of orange oil, fresh orchard fruit, clear honey and apple blossom, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and saline palate.
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CHABLIS FORETS PREMIER CRU 2020-Domaine Louis Michel et Fils
More textural than the Fôrets, the 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux delivers notes of orange oil, fresh orchard fruit, clear honey and apple blossom, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and saline palate.
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LANZAGA 2018-Telmo Rodriguez
The Rioja red 2018 Lanzaga comes from a very wet year with more than 600 liters of rain, but it had a dry October, which helped to fight mildew. They harvested between the 8th of October and 1st of November. It's a blend from their 15 to 20 hectares of organically farmed vines, all head-pruned on slopes rich in clay and limestone, mixing red and white soils, some places with more sandstone, others with more marl, looking for complexity. It fermented in 6,000-liter concrete vats with indigenous yeasts and matured in 1,500- and 2,500-liter oak foudres and 225-liter barrels for 14 months. It's floral and expressive, subtle and cold. This could very well be the best value in the portfolio. The wine has gobsmacking subtleness and elegance combined with power, definition and precision. Superb! 24,568 bottles produced. It was bottled in May/June 2020.
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CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2018-Domaine des Senechaux
The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape features scents of caramelized cherries with hints of cinnamon and vanilla. It's medium to full-bodied, lush and seductive, with a silky, enveloping mouthfeel and a gentle, lingering finish.
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GUADO AL TASSO 2018-Marchesi Antinori
Renzo Cotarella, managing director of Marchesi Antinori tells me that the 2018 vintage showed very different results in the inland and hilly Chianti Classico appellation compared to the flat, sea-facing Bolgheri appellation. This season saw some rain right before harvest. That extra humidity rolled right off the Chianti Classico hills and disappeared without effect, but it stuck around longer in the thicker, flatter soils of Guado al Tasso. For this reason, one of the estate's top wines, the Cabernet Franc-based Matarocchio, was not produced in 2018 for fear that the fruit would not offer the concentration required of a wine of that important stature. The best of that fruit was used in this wine instead. For that reason, the 2018 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso sees a little more Cabernet Franc (clocking in at about 22% of the blend) and less Merlot, with the rest being Cabernet Sauvignon, of course, (at about 60%).
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GUADO AL TASSO 2020-Marchesi Antinori
Renzo Cotarella, managing director of Marchesi Antinori tells me that the 2018 vintage showed very different results in the inland and hilly Chianti Classico appellation compared to the flat, sea-facing Bolgheri appellation. This season saw some rain right before harvest. That extra humidity rolled right off the Chianti Classico hills and disappeared without effect, but it stuck around longer in the thicker, flatter soils of Guado al Tasso. For this reason, one of the estate's top wines, the Cabernet Franc-based Matarocchio, was not produced in 2018 for fear that the fruit would not offer the concentration required of a wine of that important stature. The best of that fruit was used in this wine instead. For that reason, the 2018 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso sees a little more Cabernet Franc (clocking in at about 22% of the blend) and less Merlot, with the rest being Cabernet Sauvignon, of course, (at about 60%).
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ROSSO DEI NOTRI 2020-Tua Rita
The 2018 Rosso dei Notri (a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Sangiovese, with only 30% of the total seeing a brief four months in barrique) is a very fresh and tonic red that surprisingly comes from fruit harvested two weeks later than normal. And Merlot is not always happy to stay on the vines for longer than it has to. It's a fruit-forward wine that was aimed more at freshness instead of concentration, making it a good pair for a simple margherita pizza. You get terrific value here. Rating: 90+
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ROSSO DEI NOTRI 2018-Tua Rita
The 2018 Rosso dei Notri (a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Sangiovese, with only 30% of the total seeing a brief four months in barrique) is a very fresh and tonic red that surprisingly comes from fruit harvested two weeks later than normal. And Merlot is not always happy to stay on the vines for longer than it has to. It's a fruit-forward wine that was aimed more at freshness instead of concentration, making it a good pair for a simple margherita pizza. You get terrific value here. Rating: 90+
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CAMARCANDA BOLGHERI DOC 2018-Gaja Ca'Marcanda
The Ca' Marcanda estate does not make a Bolgheri Superiore, although this bottle would qualify as such. The 2018 Bolgheri Rosso Camarcanda is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, and you definitely feel those full-throttle varietal aromas with big intensity and clarity. Spicy greenness comes forward as grilled rosemary and lavender essence, but the wine boasts nice depth and dimension, and enough textual richness to smooth it all out. This was a slightly cooler vintage with some sporadic rain showers throughout the summer. These conditions might explain the sharper side of those Cabernet aromas. As the wine moves over the palate, it reveals more substantial aromas of black fruit, spice and baker's chocolate. This vintage is slightly thinner than the hot 2017 expression before it and the classic 2016. However, this wine should certainly play forward positively in terms of its aging potential.