Robert Parker
Robert Parker este un critic de vin din SUA. Evaluarile sale de vin pe o scara de 100 de puncte.
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Recenziile expertului Robert Parker
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EL CANDADO PEDRO XIMENEZ SHERRY-Valdespino
The NV El Candado Pedro Ximenez, produced from sun-dried Pedro Ximenez grapes for two weeks, and aged in a solera for an average of 8-10 years, is bottled with 400 grams of sugar and 17% alcohol. Mahogany color, the nose is a symphony of candied, dried fruits, raisins, figs and dates. The palate is clean, very sweet and spicy, and should be consumed quite fresh (10 degreess C), with chocolate dessert (or as a dessert in itself). I’ve often called Valdespino “the Romanee-Conti of Jerez.” Well, there, I’ve said it. To me they represent quality and tradition at the very top of the Sherry hierarchy. The winery, soleras and brands are old, registered in 1875, but with documentation about their commercial and winegrowing activities going back to the 13th century. Their recent history starts in 1999, when Jose Estevez purchases the company from the Valdespino family. Today Valdespino is the jewel in the crown of the Grupo Estevez, which also includes Real Tesoro and La Guita, who stock and age 35,000 botas of Sherry and own 800 hectares of vineyards, 56 of which come from the Pago Macharnudo, on pure white albariza soil, one of the best vineyards in the Marco de Jerez, and 17 hectares from the heart of Macharnudo are still fermented in bota today and form the core of brands like Inocente, Tio Diego, CP or Cardenal. All the wines were carefully and slowly moved to the new facilities of the Grupo Estevez on the outskirts of Jerez, where they continue their development under the supervision of Eduardo Ojeda, technical director, winemaker, who as a wine-lover is very aware of his role preserving these old soleras, wines and traditions.
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CIACCI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2019-Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona
There's no mistaking this wine for anything but Brunello. The Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows beautiful continuity, crescendoing on the nose and palate in synchronicity. There are aromas of grilled watermelon, red cherry, garden herb and violet, and there is a charred note that recalls the toasted oak. The bouquet balances out beautifully, but you do get considerably more power on the palate thanks to the oomph of 15% alcohol and young tannins that get under your gums. Give this wine a few more years of bottle age.
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CUVEE RESERVEE CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE 2020-Domaine du Pegau
I was even more impressed by the 2020 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée than the 2019. Boasting crazily complex floral scents, garrigue, raspberries and cherries, this is one incredibly perfumed example of Pegau. Medium to full-bodied, silky, elegant and long, this is quintessential Pegau.
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EL TRANSISTOR 2021-Telmo Rodriguez
The grapes for the Rueda white 2021 El Transistor were picked one week later than in 2020, the 17th of September, because there was 35 liters of rain the week before, making it the rainiest year of recent times, with a total of 451 liters during the whole season. The juice from the whole clusters fermented in barrels, foudres, concrete and stainless steel vats, where it matured for six to seven months. It has always been produced with grapes from the same vineyard on very stony soils. In 2021, it has 13% alcohol and a pH of 3.37. It's clean, fresh, medium-bodied and tasty, varietal and with the textbook bitter twist in the finish. A Rueda like they were in the past..
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LZ 2022-Telmo Rodriguez
The 2022 LZ is primary, fruit driven, young and fresh, bottled unoaked with moderate ripeness and alcohol. It's juicy and tender, with fine tannins, very nice balance and chalky minerality, transcending the concept of a young unoaked wine.
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LINDES DE REMELLURI RESERVA 2015-Remelluri
The estate red 2015 Reserva was produced with Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano from their 86 hectares of vineyards. It's from an early harvest after a warm and dry year that achieved perfect ripeness with some rain at the end of the cycle. It fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and oak vats and matured in barrel for 21 months. It combines youth with development, power with elegance and comes through as clean and defined, with a medium to full-bodied palate, focused flavors and a dry but lively finish.
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LINDES DE REMELLURI RESERVA 2016-Remelluri
The estate red 2015 Reserva was produced with Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano from their 86 hectares of vineyards. It's from an early harvest after a warm and dry year that achieved perfect ripeness with some rain at the end of the cycle. It fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and oak vats and matured in barrel for 21 months. It combines youth with development, power with elegance and comes through as clean and defined, with a medium to full-bodied palate, focused flavors and a dry but lively finish.
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GAGO 2019-Telmo Rodriguez
The grapes for the Toro red 2019 Gago were picked from mid-September in an early harvest when the wine ripened to 14.4% alcohol and a pH of 3.8. The grapes come from the villages of Argujillo, Villabuena del Puente and Morales de Toro and were fermented in oak and stainless steel vats and matured for 14 months in oak foudres, with 20% of the volume in barriques. There is finesse within the power and the ripe and concentrated vintage. It's juicy and lush, with abundant, grainy tannins. It needs powerful food. 40,695 bottles produced. It was bottled in May and June 2020. I tasted the whole portfolio of Telmo Rodríguez a few months ago, and as usual, I'm including here his wines from the Duero for context and completeness of this article. As I wrote at the time, their Ribera del Duero project is moving very slowly. They still want to restore the old stone house they bought and build the winery, but the permits seem almost impossible. But they revamped the wine from there a few vintages ago, and it’s a great success. Matallana is a regional blend of the different villages where they have vineyards, but the vineyard names have been crossed out on the label, as the appellation does not allow them to be mentioned! The 2018 is stunning. Telmo Rodríguez and Pablo Eguzkiza have fermented their 2021s from Galicia in the new winery in Valdeorras, Ribera del Duero. It is still a work in progress, and there will be new stuff from Rioja in a few more years. The main wines across the portfolio feel very consolidated now. (by Luis Gutiérrez)
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LANZAGA 2019-Telmo Rodriguez
When tasted next to the 2020, the 2019 Lanzaga comes through as a little more closed and austere, with a little less alcohol (14% vs 14.5%) and with rounder tannins. It comes from 15 to 20 hectares of their own organically farmed vineyards. It fermented in concrete with indigenous yeasts and matured in 225-liter barrels and 1,500- and 2,500-liter oak foudres for 14 months.
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BAROLO BRICCO DELLE VIOLE 2018-Marengo
The 2018 Barolo Bricco delle Viole (with 6,000 bottles made) opens to a medium rich appearance followed by very distinct aromas of wild rose, grilled herb, mint and freshly milled white pepper. The wine's texture is lean but fine-tuned and elegant. These qualities shape a long and polished mouthfeel. Fruit comes from a one-hectare parcel at a breezy 420 meters in elevation.
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DOMAINE DE SÉNÉCHAUX CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2019-Domaine des Senechaux
Senechaux's 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of 57% Grenache, 24% Syrah and 19% Mourvèdre, aged in a combination of foudres, older barriques and concrete tanks. It offers up a nice array of fruit flavors, ranging from grilled cherries and red-skinned plums to fresh red raspberries. Full-bodied, supple and easy to drink already, it finishes with ample length and mouthwatering acids.
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SOLOSOLE 2021-Poggio al Tesoro
The folks at Poggio al Tesoro really have nabbed a successful approach when it comes to the versatile Vermentino grape. The 2021 Bolgheri Vermentino Solosole opens to a luminous appearance and golden highlights. The bouquet produces nectarine, passion fruit, pomelo and a glossy or waxy element that adds a bit of the proverbial shine. It only sees stainless steel, and the grapes come from a vineyard planted just above the level of the sea. An ample 100,000 bottles were made and each one offers terrific value.