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The 2021 Pegaso Barrancos de Pizarra comes from the vines on the mid slope and has a very elegant, fragrant nose with notes of concentrated violet and a solid palate. The slate tannins give a talcum powder texture, and the wine opens up in the mid-palate, making it very expansive. In the long term, it seems like the slate gives a better palate and the granite is more nose. Given the longer cycle and slow ripeness of the grapes, the wine has contained ripeness and 14.5% alcohol and is more polished and with integrated acidity. This has the combination of the cooler year and the resilience of the slate soils, coming through as complex and elegant, powerful and concentrated but with an ethereal side to it too. Bravo!
The Lindes collection comes alternately in Bordeaux and Burgundy bottles, depending on the amount of Garnacha in the wine, with a Burgundian bottle for the wines with more Garnacha. The new 2020 Lindes de Remelluri Viñedos de Labastida is made with grapes from 11 grape growers in the village with different lieux-dits ranging from 440 to 710 meters above sea level, and the final blend was 89% Tempranillo, 6% Graciano and 5% Garnacha. The winemaking and aging were similar for all the wines to highlight the differences from the places, in this case, the character of Labastida, which is more floral and with more finesse than San Vicente, more serious, more delicate but not without clout. This has 14.12% alcohol.
The barrique-aged Tenuta Luce 2020 Lucente is a very well-priced blend of Merlot and Sangiovese. The wine shows a medium to full-bodied approach with sweet cherry, raspberry tart, almond cake and perfumed redwood or cedar smoke. It offers a contemporary style and soft texture that wraps fully over the palate. This is a handy, versatile wine to pair with a good many of your favorite Italian foods.
The Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso opens to a wide and all-encompassing bouquet with dried cherry or cherry pie with the crust, plum tart and rose potpourri. There are evident oak tones, but they fold into underbrush, grilled herb and the generous texture of this wine. Likewise, the 15% alcohol content also neatly disappears into the wine's fleshy fruit consistency. For sure, this is a wine that needs more bottle evolution in order to hone in on the silkiness and pretty freshness of such an important Sangiovese.
There is a flinty and smoky twist in the 2022 El Transistor, a pure Verdejo from stony soils. It fermented with indigenous yeasts in barriques, foudres and concrete vats, where it matured after six or seven months. To keep the freshness, the whites from Rueda don't go through malolactic fermentation, and this kept a healthy level of acidity and pH (3.33), while the alcohol was 13%. This is rich without excess and fills your mouth, and it has the chalky texture from the limestone rich soils. Tasty.
The 2022 Blanc de Blancs comes from the lower terraces of the property and grapes purchased from local growers. It's a blend of 50% Xarel.lo, 30% Macabeo, 15% Parellada and 5% Malvasía de Sitges that refermented in bottle where it was kept with the lees for at least 18 months. It has a pale and bright color with some green tints denoting youth and is clean and fruit-driven with a Mediterranean nose with notes of fennel and aromatic herbs and a tasty palate. It gives good pleasure for the price; it has tension, balance and fruit but is not heavy and has a tasty, almost salty twist in the finish. This is pure, clean and pleasant, complex and expressive beyond its price point. 210,000 bottles produced.
The NV El Candado Pedro Ximenez, produced from sun-dried Pedro Ximenez grapes for two weeks, and aged in a solera for an average of 8-10 years, is bottled with 400 grams of sugar and 17% alcohol. Mahogany color, the nose is a symphony of candied, dried fruits, raisins, figs and dates. The palate is clean, very sweet and spicy, and should be consumed quite fresh (10 degreess C), with chocolate dessert (or as a dessert in itself). I’ve often called Valdespino “the Romanee-Conti of Jerez.” Well, there, I’ve said it. To me they represent quality and tradition at the very top of the Sherry hierarchy. The winery, soleras and brands are old, registered in 1875, but with documentation about their commercial and winegrowing activities going back to the 13th century. Their recent history starts in 1999, when Jose Estevez purchases the company from the Valdespino family. Today Valdespino is the jewel in the crown of the Grupo Estevez, which also includes Real Tesoro and La Guita, who stock and age 35,000 botas of Sherry and own 800 hectares of vineyards, 56 of which come from the Pago Macharnudo, on pure white albariza soil, one of the best vineyards in the Marco de Jerez, and 17 hectares from the heart of Macharnudo are still fermented in bota today and form the core of brands like Inocente, Tio Diego, CP or Cardenal. All the wines were carefully and slowly moved to the new facilities of the Grupo Estevez on the outskirts of Jerez, where they continue their development under the supervision of Eduardo Ojeda, technical director, winemaker, who as a wine-lover is very aware of his role preserving these old soleras, wines and traditions.
There's no mistaking this wine for anything but Brunello. The Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona 2019 Brunello di Montalcino shows beautiful continuity, crescendoing on the nose and palate in synchronicity. There are aromas of grilled watermelon, red cherry, garden herb and violet, and there is a charred note that recalls the toasted oak. The bouquet balances out beautifully, but you do get considerably more power on the palate thanks to the oomph of 15% alcohol and young tannins that get under your gums. Give this wine a few more years of bottle age.
I was even more impressed by the 2020 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée than the 2019. Boasting crazily complex floral scents, garrigue, raspberries and cherries, this is one incredibly perfumed example of Pegau. Medium to full-bodied, silky, elegant and long, this is quintessential Pegau.
The grapes for the Rueda white 2021 El Transistor were picked one week later than in 2020, the 17th of September, because there was 35 liters of rain the week before, making it the rainiest year of recent times, with a total of 451 liters during the whole season. The juice from the whole clusters fermented in barrels, foudres, concrete and stainless steel vats, where it matured for six to seven months. It has always been produced with grapes from the same vineyard on very stony soils. In 2021, it has 13% alcohol and a pH of 3.37. It's clean, fresh, medium-bodied and tasty, varietal and with the textbook bitter twist in the finish. A Rueda like they were in the past..
The 2022 LZ is primary, fruit driven, young and fresh, bottled unoaked with moderate ripeness and alcohol. It's juicy and tender, with fine tannins, very nice balance and chalky minerality, transcending the concept of a young unoaked wine.
The estate red 2015 Reserva was produced with Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano from their 86 hectares of vineyards. It's from an early harvest after a warm and dry year that achieved perfect ripeness with some rain at the end of the cycle. It fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and oak vats and matured in barrel for 21 months. It combines youth with development, power with elegance and comes through as clean and defined, with a medium to full-bodied palate, focused flavors and a dry but lively finish.
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P.S.: 🍷 Don`t drink and type...