Robert Parker

The 2016 Macán saw a new vinification by plot with the introduction of their new fermentation room. The Tempranillo came from selected vineyards from their 92 hectares; it fermented in oak vats and matured in 4,000-liter and barriques (50/50) for some 16 months and was kept in bottle for three years before being released. They think this 2016 is finally the style they were looking for, a wine with density and freshness. 2016 was the first year they vinified and aged from start to finish in the new winery, and they believe that gave them better control over the fermentations. 2016 is a year with more freshness than 2015, and they are trying to achieve wines with more tension and less power and oak than in the beginning. This could very well be the finest vintage of Macán so far.

The 2016 Pintia comes from a cooler but drier vintage, and the wine has a little less alcohol and more freshness. It fermented in oak vats and matured in mostly new and mostly French oak, but this year they used a little more American oak with the idea to increase density. 2016 was an atypical year in Toro; they had plenty of time to pick the grapes with lower alcohol and wines with more elegance. This is clearly a more elegant vintage than 2015. The wine has some notes that took me to the Northern Rhône, and the oak is neatly integrated—it seems to get better integrated in cooler years. There is a mix of black and red fruit that denotes good freshness. The palate is medium-bodied, with a distinct lack of rusticity and density, and it's more fluid. It has abundant, chalky and fine-grained tannins and a supple, long and dry finish. 230,032 bottles, 6,517 magnums and some larger formats were produced. It was bottled in May 2018.

The current vintage of the red that is their first option to have with food is the 2016 Selección Especial, whose grapes are selected from terraced vineyards in the Montes Obarenes and the Sierra Cantabria, from vines averaging 35 years of age. It fermented in oak vats and matured in French oak barrels for 26 months, and it's kept in bottle for at least 18 months before it's sold. This is serious and has freshness and some restraint in the palate; it's much more expressive, floral and aromatic and with more-integrated oak than the wines from five+ years ago. It's a more elegant vintage than the 2015 and every bit as good, or a tad better. Winemaker Isaac Muga considers 2016 a very good harvest. It was bottled in April 2019. This is among the best vintages of Selección Especial

A blend of fruit from Barossa, McLaren Vale and Padthaway, the 2017 Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz is meant to replicate the Northern Barossa style of its namesake vineyard, with opulent dark fruit, savory spice notes of pepper and licorice and a full-bodied, plush mouthfeel. It's a delicious Shiraz for drinking over the next decade or so.

The NV UniQ is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Negru de Drӑgӑşani, all aged from nine to 24 months in oak of varying ages depending on lot (overall, 25% new) and origins (French and Romanian). This is a non-vintage wine because the components are from different years (and, as an aside, each of the grapes are from different appellations). The Cabernet is from the 2013 vintage, the Merlot is from 2016 and the Negru de Drӑgӑşani is from 2017. It comes in at 14.1% alcohol. By far the most expensive of the Romanian wines in this report (the winery's half-bottle of Sirena is next), this certainly delivered, although a strong competitor in this report is the winery's own Soare Cabernet Sauvignon at only $30. This is a very different style, though, as it is a more nuanced wine and a more polished wine. This shows more finesse and refinement and a little less rusticity. It will also be ready to drink now, given its older vintages as components, its maturity serving well. This is lovely and hard to resist today, but the price point is obviously not easy. Although a non-vintage wine, the back label in the middle has a lot number with a year showing when this wine was produced.

The Podere Brizio 2015 Brunello di Montalcino (an estate owned by Dievole) is a full and generous wine ready for a serving of veal and vegetables. This is an elegant and impactful expression of Sangiovese that impresses thanks to the purity and the fine nature of its aromas. Delicate fruit nuances of dried raspberry and cherry cede to dried spice, earth and crushed flowers. Those glorious floral aromas are nicely underlined with layers of lilac, violet and lavender. A touch of dusty mineral fits in smoothly on the finish.